How these sneakers became a symbol of fear
When the US joined the war in Afghanistan, American soldiers were ordered to stop and question anyone wearing these shoes. These high-top white leather sneakers are a part of Pakistani shoemaker Servis’ (pronounced “Sar-wees”) Cheetah brand. Endorsed by athletes and celebrities, the Cheetah is one of the top-selling sports brands in the region. However, in many communities throughout Afghanistan, this shoe has become synonymous with fear and violence. When Servis first released this line in the 1980s, they never intended it to be utilized by insurgent Taliban forces in Afghanistan, nonetheless, the shoes have become almost ubiquitous with the terrorist organization today.
Nicknamed the “Haqqani High-Tops” by American troops, these shoes were first seen during the Soviet-Afghan war, worn by mujahideen fighters, and have become a staple for insurgents in the region. Through the many violent conflicts in this region, one thing has remained constant- these sneakers, marred by blood and sand, on the battlefields of Afghanistan. Brigadier General Khair Mohammad Timor, a former insurgent commander, told the New York Times that they were first used because the shoes made the insurgent fighters look more professional. Since then, he says, they have “become a tradition” and are a sort of status symbol, still worn today by many insurgents.
Vendors throughout the cities of Afghanistan display the Servis Cheetahs, unconcealed, among the array of other offerings in their stores. However, it is an unspoken rule that the only ones who inquire about and purchase it are not everyday civilians. Hashim Shingal, a shoe vendor in Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan, says he “doesn’t ask” who the ones buying these sneakers are, as they have become a bestseller in his store. The Taliban acquire these shoes in many different ways, including sending Taxi drivers into city centers in Afghanistan and Pakistan to purchase these shoes in bulk. Shingal says his customers almost always ask for receipts.
Recently, after reclaiming power in Kabul, the Taliban have attempted to distance themselves from the shoe, opting for more traditional military-style boots. Many Afghans living in more remote and mountainous parts of the nation also frequently wear these sneakers, citing the durability and comfort of the shoe at its $20 price point. However, the Taliban is unable to wash its blood off these shoes. Even today, the shoes hold a strong affiliation with the Islamic militant group and have become a symbol of violence, striking fear into the hearts of many Afghan people.
Sales of this shoe still continue to surge in Afghanistan. Officially, over 200,000 Servis Cheetahs are exported to Afghanistan each year, and Servis still maintains that this shoe is for everyone, not just the Taliban. If you are curious, there are some military surplus stores that sell these sneakers online in the US from anywhere from $80 - $130. They also come in black and also have a low-top style in white, black, and khaki. This is not an official endorsement from me, and if you decide to purchase these shoes, please be careful wearing them at airports.